We’re finally back after a break for the holidays. Although the New Year is getting off to a slow start, there are some interesting things going on.
First I’ve got to share where we went for New Year’s Eve. As I’ve mentioned in an earlier post, the Lumberville General Store is now doing a 3-course prix fixe dinner every Friday night for $16.95. Chef Wayne Surline served up a fabulous meal for New Year’s Eve as well. First course was a salad of Boston bib lettuce with candied pecans, goat cheese and a champagne orange vinaigrette, followed by butternut squash bisque with roasted beet puree. The entrée was a choice of stuffed pork chop with figs, blue cheese and basil or seafood pot pie. My choice was the latter, and it was filled with a generous portion of scallops and shrimp with a creamy sauce. For dessert we indulged in a chocolate mousse with fresh berries. All for $26.95 per person! The store is always quaint but with the decorations and lighting it provided an intimate yet down-to-earth vibe that was perfect.
Some good news on the restaurant front. Café Blue Moose is finally open in New Hope on Mechanic Street right next to Zoubi’s. This youth-run restaurant offers French-inspired cuisine at very reasonable prices. See our previous post all about it.
Kindle Café, the roaming vegetarian eatery and personal chef service, is back in Lambertville after a six month hiatus. This “supper club” will be offering prix fixe meals on Thursdays and Fridays at a private location, as well as Wednesday evening cooking classes. To find out more, see their website.
An Evening in the Colonial Kitchen is back for its 33rd year at the Cock n’Bull Restaurant in Peddler’s Village. Each Monday through the end of March you can enjoy food from colonial times while meeting famous men and women (played by actors) from over 200 years ago. It’s a good deal too – only $21.95 for adults and $10.95 for children 10 and under. For the complete Colonial Dinner menu, visit www.peddlersvillage.com. Reservations are recommended, call 215-794-4000.
The Kitchen Potager, well known for its innovative Chefs Dinner Series of intimate meals with local and regional fine chefs, is hosting their first dinner of 2012 on Saturday, January 14. “Wood Fired” will feature Chefs Andrew and KristinWood who will present a rustic preview to their new restaurant Russet, opening in Rittenhouse Square in early 2012. The menu will feature grilled flatbread with ash roasted beets finished with Taleggio cheese, capon consomme with mortadella torteloni, braised short ribs with local mushrooms and polenta, and pears poached in Moscato d’Asti with sabayon. The Kitchen Potager’s Chefs Dinners series offers dining experiences featuring quality local ingredients, artisanal and traditional preparations combined with the unique atmosphere created by the season, guests and chef. Dinners are BYOB and wine pairing recommendations are available upon request. There is limited seating and reservations are required by January 8th. See their website for more information and to make a reservation.
For more details on any of these events, please go to our full calendar, Food Events in Bucks County. Have a warm weekend. Follow Bucks County Taste also on Facebook and Twitter.
It’s common at this time of year to look back and reflect on the year that has been. It’s been a good one for Bucks County food. I’ve been privileged to write about many interesting people and great food. As I reviewed my posts, I decided that rather than do a “best of” piece, I’d share some of my favorites with you.
The year began cold as always but we were warmed by a wonderful scotch dinner at the Yardley Inn. This is an annual affair which takes place on the Sunday of Martin Luther King Day weekend. Even my husband – the bourbon aficionado – enjoyed the event and changed his mind about scotch (!). I have been a fan of single malt scotch for quite some time so it was heaven for me. Sitting down at our table and seeing five glasses of golden liquid at my place setting sent my heart soaring. And each of the scotches was paired with dishes that complemented and enhanced them. Chef Eben Copple created the menu and walked us through the background of each whiskey. To read more about the event, click here.
Another way to warm up in the middle of winter is to forego the usual Superbowl fare and go for barbecue instead. In February I posted about good BBQ places in Bucks. It’s a great list to draw from and certainly beats nachos for a football afternoon.
In March I had my 15 minutes of fame (probably more like five). I was part of the audience for the Diners, Drive-ins and Dives episode at the Pineville Tavern, and, well, the DDD producer liked my “sound bite” – a lot. Imagine my surprise, as I sat at the crowded PVT bar watching the episode for the first time and I saw my face on the big screen TV. Yikes. It has been fun this year as the episode is replayed (many times) and friends happen to catch it, not expecting to see someone they know on TV. Thanks to the Pineville and their great ravioli. You can read about it at Here Comes Guy Fieri.
In June, my partner, Alan Brown, and I launched a new venture called Bucks County Food Tours. We take folks on five-hour tours of some of the best food in Bucks, visiting bakeries, farms, cheesemakers, ice creameries, orchards, butchers and more. It’s a delicious and interesting day, meeting the people who produce and grow great food in Bucks. To learn more about the tours, including itineraries, click here.
One of our regular stops on the tours is oWowCow Creamery, now in Wrightstown as well as Ottsville, where we get a chance to chat with owner and ice cream maker John Fezzuoglio. oWow Cow relies heavily on local and organic ingredients for their innovative and fresh ice cream. Read more about them here in a post I did when they opened in Wrightstown this past July.
On Bucks County Taste I’m always trying to give exposure to what’s good in our own backyards, so to speak. But I can’t be everywhere at once! That’s why I asked you, my audience, what places you’d recommend as “don’t miss” food in Bucks. The result is a page full of restaurants, markets, ice cream, farms and other food producers. Check out the list here and add any of your favorites using the comment feature.
One of our favorite meals to eat out is breakfast and Bucks County is fortunate to have many good places. In our post, Breakfast in Bucks, we focus on three particular restaurants – Fred’s Breakfast Club (New Hope), the Vintage Grille (Fountainville) and Vera’s Country Café (Ottsville) – and then list almost three dozen breakfast spots in Bucks and nearby. Peruse the list and see if you can find a new breakfast place to try.
I don’t do many restaurant features but this year gave me the opportunity to do several, among them Hickory Kitchen in Doylestown and the Café Blue Moose in New Hope. Hickory Kitchen is one of our favorite places for barbecue, but that’s not all they do. The menu is versatile and truly has something for everyone. Café Blue Moose, which just opened in New Hope, is a youth-run restaurant. Skylar Bird, its owner and prime force, employs only teens. The enterprise used to be only a weekly event at his family’s converted mill but now Skylar has brought it to a permanent location in New Hope next to Zoubi’s on Mechanic Street. Read the post to learn more about Skylar and this new restaurant.
The Coffee Scoop is another of my favorite posts and one of the only organic coffee roasters in Pennsylvania. From their home in Pipersville, Karen and Warren May roast, package and distribute fresh organic coffee beans. I learned a lot about coffee while doing the article and gained a new appreciation for freshly roasted coffee. Read more here.
If you’ve a regular reader of Bucks County Taste you probably know of my love of cheese. I had the opportunity to interview Nina and Jonathan White of Bobolink Dairy and Bakehouse, where they produce fine artisanal cheese and fresh baked goods. I also learned how to make matzah from Nina. What fun. Read more about Bobolink here and see the video of matzah making here.
One of the most exciting developments in Bucks County is the increase in access to local and organic foods. Distribution is always the challenge but two organizations, Suburban Organics and Winter Sun Farms, offer new ways of getting quality food into your home. Suburban Organics delivers organic food right to your doorstep. Learn more about this Ottsville company here. Winter Sun Farms uses the CSA (community supported agriculture) model to distribute freshly frozen (right at harvest) vegetables and fruit, cleaned, cut and ready for cooking all winter long. Read the article about them here.
Learning about Castle Valley Mill, the first grain mill to operate in Bucks County in decades, was one of the highlights of the year for me. Seeing the mill machinery first hand was fascinating. Even more exciting is knowing that soon (hopefully this spring) Mark Fischer, owner of the mill, will have the old, water-powered mill operating too. Check out the article and photos here.
Wrapping up the year was a story I did after speaking with local chefs, “Holiday memories: the good, the bad and the ugly.” I asked them about their food holiday memories and was warmed by the responses as one after another they shared family stories of preparing and eating. The big surprise was the prevalence of Jell-o! Ah well.
I hope it has been a good year for you and your family, and I hope that the New Year is an even better one. Wishing you good health and good eating.
This year brings upon a unique situation to me, Brent Gobrecht, and the rest of the ViperClub. The best wings I have eaten in Bucks County this year are not going to be awarded the number one spot. These wings didn’t need to be ordered in a special way. They weren’t masked with confusing, exotic flavors. They were just brilliantly prepared Buffalo style hot wings. There, as I eagerly dove into my second wing at the Wycombe Pub and Grill, it took nearly all of my military training to contain some semblance of professional composure and not scream out in poultry-induced ecstasy, fist pump to the angels spinning a wild stave in my head, force my way into the kitchen, and kiss the chef. I’ve learned that this type of reaction draws the attention of local law enforcement. Then, like a little boy presented with the only thing sought for Christmas being ripped from my hands by the likes of jolly old St. Nicolas himself cruelly, laughing all the way, I learned the devastating reality that in just five short days, the Wycombe Pub and Grill would be closing their doors indefinitely. I made the decision that night. Even though these were the best wings I’ve eaten in 2011, I would not be putting them in the number one spot given that you, the reader, would not be able to experience them for yourself (if you haven’t already).
New to our top ten list are two places just on the edge of Bucks County, the Naceville Hotel at number three and the Jamison Publick House at number five. The Jamison Publick House is so close to the border that I don’t believe it has a Bucks County mailing address. I’ve checked the satellite image though, and the building itself is plainly in Upper Bucks County. While I was at the Naceville Hotel, I learned that the wing chef and I have met before, so to speak. Apparently, he used to work at Big Daddy’s Wagon Wheel Tavern (4th). He has brought his knowledge to Naceville with extraordinary success and got the Hotel not only on the top ten list, but into third place!
Seeking out some excellent wings in Upper Bucks County is no more convenient than getting yourself into Riegelsville. Both the Riegelsville Inn and the Riegelsville Tavern have locked up the two and eight spots respectively. Like the Wycombe Pub and Grill, the Riegelsville Inn’s wings are ordered basic, no special instructions to the chef, no confusing exotic flavors. This means that the Riegelsville Inn has a consistently delicious wing, with a near perfect crisp. Moreover, if there is only one wing aficionado in your group, it’s still safe to make your dinner reservations. Everything on the menu at the Riegelsville Inn is delicious and fairly priced. I am however, curious, as to the relationship between the Inn and the Riegelsville Tavern which sits just down the road. If there isn’t a rivalry already, I’m afraid that one is about to begin. Having two not just decent places to get wings in such close proximity, but two of the BEST places to get wings in Bucks County in such close proximity will undoubtedly develop loyal legions of devoted fans convinced that their place is the better. And that folks; spells out a recipe for a rivalry that is nothing short of Ford and Chevy, Phillies and Yankees, cats and dogs, Gibson and Fender, Pats and Geno’s, all rolled into one.
After all is said and done, this year, the ViperClub chooses (for the second year in a row!) the Old Bethlehem Road Hotel (The OBR) as the best place for wings in Upper Bucks County. Off the beaten path near Lake Nockamixon and nestled in those backwoods sits this charming little pub. Whether it is your first time there or as one of the regulars propping up the bar, Pascale (the owner) and the rest of the staff are quick to take you in and treat you as a long lost friend …with lots of catching up to do. The bottom line is the OBR continues to deliver consistently delicious wings. The sauce is the chef’s own unique blend of spices over choice wings cooked to a crispy perfection. Still (relatively) new to the area the OBR is consistently over shadowing places like Big Daddy’s Wagon Wheel Tavern. Again, two excellent places to get wings in close proximity will certainly spell out a recipe for another rivalry, one which I will be eager to judge again, next year.
Bucks County Taste is taking a little time off for the holidays to enjoy food, family and friends. May your holiday be sweet, warm and bright, and full of good cheer with the ones you love.
Shopping and wine. Well, not necessarily together. It just seems looking around, many people are freaking that Christmas is only a week away. Hence, shopping. And looking at our food calendar, while the number of activities has dropped, many of them involve drinking wine. Seems a perfect antidote to the holiday craziness, no? So take out some time to visit an area winery this weekend. Alba Vineyards near Milford, NJ is releasing their Old Mill Red wine this weekend. Also in New Jersey, Old York Cellars in Ringoes will celebrate the holidays with music on Saturday evening. Crossing Vineyards in Washington Crossing, PA will also bring in the holiday cheer Friday night with a Ho-ho Holiday Concert and Sing-along.
Can’t take the time out from shopping? After picking up some great gifts and food at the Stockton Market, stop by Phillips’ Fine Wines right next door on Friday afternoon for beer tasting and Saturday afternoon for wine tasting (which happens every weekend, by the way).
For more details on any of these events, please go to our full calendar, Food Events in Bucks County. Have a chillin’ weekend. Follow Bucks County Taste also on Facebook and Twitter.
As the holidays approach, the focus shifts and holiday eating – or partying – takes center stage. There are fewer markets as the growing season ends, fewer food events and more shopping and getting ready for the holidays. This is my way of saying that I’ve noticed the our calendar slimming down, even if the rest of us are bulking up!
To market, to market. But…there are still farmers’ markets going on and still fresh produce to be had. More and more farmers are growing salad greens, for instance, in hoop houses and greenhouses. How splendid to be getting local greens in mid-December. Markets are also a great place to get gifts. The Stockton Market, a year-round indoor market, has many vendors – not just food – who can help out in the gift department.
Both the Wrightstown Farmers’ Market and the New Hope Farmers’ Market will have winter mini-markets this week. The Wrightstown market will be this Saturday, December 10 from 10 am to 11 pm at their regular location. Most of their regular vendors will be there. This mini-market will take place every 2nd Saturday through April until the regular weekly market opens on May 5th. For more info see their website. The New Hope Farmers’ Market is also having a winter market on the 3rd Thursday of every month through April. They meet in the parking lot of New Hope-Solebury High School from 3:30 pm to 5 pm (note the shorter hours), starting this Thursday, December 15.
For a great foodie gift for your loved one – or yourself, don’t forget Bucks County Food Tours. Each tour lasts five hours and makes stops at local farms, markets, butchers, ice creameries and bakeries for behind-the-scenes visits. Transportation and a great, locally sourced lunch are part of the deal too. Meet the people who are making, growing and raising the best food in Bucks County. See their website for more information and specific itineraries (and, yes, I’m one of the tour guides!).
Firehouse breakfasts and dinners abound. Two firehouse dinners take place this weekend, one up in Erwinna on Friday and one in Plumsteadville on Saturday, and two breakfasts – at Silverdale and Richland Township – are happening on Sunday. Check the full calendar for details.
For more details on any of these events, please go to our full calendar, Food Events in Bucks County. Have a delicious weekend. Follow Bucks County Taste also on Facebook and Twitter.
Friday, December 9:
Christmas Tea (class) @ The Cooking Cottage, 1731 Old Bethlehem Pike, Sellersville PA [10 am – 12 pm]
Members of Wednesdays for Women, a networking group of local women who meet at Hamilton’s Grill Room twice each month to share their expertise on business, health care and the arts, will hold their first holiday bazaar December 7 from noon to 7 pm at the Lambertville restaurant. Hamilton’s will be transformed into a marketplace for some of the area’s best artists and artisans for this show, which is open to the public.
It’s a holiday shopper’s delight: area artisans’ handcrafted jewelry, scarves, ceramics, chocolates, artwork, baked goods and local fruit baskets, plus the chance to relax and dine afterward at a holiday buffet at one of the area’s finest restaurants.
After the show ends at 7 pm the rooms will be returned to a dining area in time for Executive Chef Mark Miller’s holiday buffet. Shoppers can follow up their gift purchases with a gift for themselves: his prix fixe $30 meal. The buffet table will include White Bean Salad, Roasted Beets Vinaigrette, String Beans Vinaigrette, Olive Oil marinated White Anchovies, Deviled Eggs, Roasted Red Peppers with Mozzarella, Mushroom Soup and more. The main features will be Aunt Jemima’s Baked Ham with Maple Glaze, Roast Breast of Turkey with Gravy, Grilled Marinated Winter Vegetables, Garlic Mashed Potatoes, artisan breads, dessert selections plus coffee or tea.
Selling jewelry at the show will be Jane Wesby (River Queen Artisans), Diana Contine (Dakota Moon) , Holly Bauer , Jackie Ker Tuile, Joan Rosetsky and Catherine Mauger. Stephanie Smith will offer scarves while Illia Barger, Virginia Sigety and Maggie Beesley will sell clothing. Handbags will be represented by Ginny Burke-Preston and artwork by Annelies Van Dommelen and Susan Rovello. Shiela Coutin will display her ceramics while Karen Caldwell will offer her stained glass. Beauty products will be offered by Elaine Marigliano and Sandy Rowshan, with handmade chocolates by Laurie Douglass of Laurie’s Chocolates. Baked goods will be sold by Laura Arnold and fruit baskets by Amy Manoff of Manoff Market Gardens.
The holiday buffet is $30 per person plus tax and gratutity. Call 609.397.4343 for more information.
There are over four dozen roads and streets in Bucks County with the word “mill” in their names: Mill Creek, Mill Pond, Mill Valley, Millbrook and Mill Road (over two dozen alone) to name a few. But in fact there haven’t been any active grain mills in the county for decades. Until now.
Mark and Fran Fischer’s house sits next to a mill on property bought by Mark’s grandfather in 1947.
His grandfather’s dream was always to restore the mill, originally built in 1730, to working order. He never achieved this in his lifetime but he did collect – and probably saved from oblivion – mill parts from all over the county.
Walking through the mill with Fischer feels a little like walking through the Mercer Museum. Mill stones – and they are big and heavy – lean up against the walls, some as big as four feet in diameter. Portable mills, so called because the cast iron machines are smaller than the larger, water-powered mills, are scattered throughout the building along with other parts, ready for use in the water-powered mill. Most date back to the late 1800’s.
Now it’s Fischer’s dream to restore the mill. He’s already producing stone ground whole wheat flour and cornmeal using two portable mills set up in his barn under the name Castle Valley Mill.
There the wheat is first separated from the chaff – the dry, scaly protective casing around the grain seed – cleaned, and prepared for grinding. (Yes, that indeed is where the expression comes from.)
Then using large, thick mill stones the grain is ground. The mill stones sit horizontally in a cast iron casing almost resting on each other, with only a paper thin clearance between them.
In fact, if the stones are too close, you can smell it, says Fischer. Hence the expression, “keeping your nose to the grindstone.” The stones have furrows and lands, deep rows in their surface that have to be dressed, or sharpened by hand. One mill grinds whole wheat, the other grinds corn, and produces both cornmeal and coarser grain for grits and polenta.
The mill sits next to the Neshaminy Creek not far from Delaware Valley University in Doylestown Township. It was last in use as a water-powered mill in 1922 but became obsolete when steam engines took over powering mills.
The modern grain mill was born but the unique taste and nutrition of stone ground grain was the victim, says Fischer. With industrialization came the goal of creating fine white flour. Unfortunately that process uses too much heat and the vitamins are literally cooked out of the grain. This is why all supermarket flour is “enriched” with vitamins and the desire for “white” flour is why bleaching is often used.
Fast forward to September 2010. Fischer sold his business in the aviation industry and, due to a non-compete agreement, found himself with some time on his hands.
After attending a workshop in millwork, he set himself to refurbishing several portable mills, from the inside out.
Looking up the original patent applications from the mid- to late-1800’s, he tore apart the mills, cleaned and sandblasted the cast iron and put them back together. The mills are now powered by a 10 horsepower engine and produce whole wheat flour, cornmeal and grits/polenta, all from locally grown wheat and corn. The wheat makes great flour for pastry and the grits, well, Fischer says he has Southerners as customers who send it back home to grateful family members.
Fran Fischer handed me a two pound bag of Castle Valley Mill’s whole wheat flour and said, “It makes the best pancakes. Really.” I was dubious.
I had to taste it for myself, of course. Fran Fischer handed me a two pound bag of Castle Valley Mill’s whole wheat flour and said, “It makes the best pancakes. Really.” I was dubious. Whole wheat pancakes? But I love big fluffy buttermilk pancakes, I whined.
But I made the pancakes, using the recipe provided by the Fischers, tied to the cloth flour bag. After setting them down on the table, I discovered we were out of maple syrup. We improvised, eating some plain with butter and some with jam.
I’m glad we were out of syrup because we were really able to taste the pancakes. What emerged was tremendous taste and texture. Complex taste. It made us realize that most pancakes are really just a bland platform (or excuse) for lots of butter and syrup. So this is what freshly ground flour tastes like, I thought. And what “stone ground” really means. It’s not just a marketing tactic. And along with taste comes quality and nutrition – “real food,” says Fischer.
Fischer plans to have the water-powered mill up and running by this spring. As for grinding organic and non-GMO (genetically modified) grains, he’s still looking for a good local source, preferring to buy local over organic. If he can find it, he’ll set up a separate mill for the organic flour.
You can buy the flour at The Larder and the Market at Del Val, both in Doylestown. You can also buy the flour direct online. The cost is $6 for a 2 lb. bag. Once the water-powered mill is running, Fischer will be able to buy the grain in larger quantities which may bring his costs down. This winter he’ll also be working on a wholesale business, reaching out to restaurants, bakeries and food professionals.
In the meantime, go buy some Castle Valley Mill whole wheat or cornmeal, and see what freshly ground flour tastes like.
Click on a photo to see it larger. All photos are by L. Goldman.
This Santa guy really gets around. Even in the digital age. Impressive.
Lots of Christmas-related food activities, like my favorite – “cookie walks” (what a great name, and activity!). Several churches and senior centers are holding cookie sales this week and next, including a cookie bake sale today and tomorrow at Trinity Episcopal Church in Solebury. The Cooking Cottage in Sellersville will hold several classes this week on baking holiday cookies, making a Christmas tea and holiday entertaining. The Kitchen Potager at Linden Hill Gardens in Ottsville is also holding a Gingerbread House Making class. Check the full calendar for details or click on the name of the organization above to go to their websites.
Many festivals too. Check out the Ottsville Holiday Festival also at Linden Hill Gardens. Many of your favorite food vendors and artisans from the Ottsville Farmers’ Market will be there and more. The festival takes place this Saturday and Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm. For more information, see their website.
This Thursday, December 8th two unique events are taking place. The Doylestown Food Co-op will be presenting a showing of the movie, FRESH. The evening is also an opportunity to learn more about the co-op which is being formed to bring local food to a brick-and-mortar location in Doylestown. The screening is happening at Aldie Mansion and is co-sponsored by the Heritage Conservancy and the Bucks County Foodshed Alliance. Tickets are only $10. Come out to see a great movie and support the Doylestown Food Co-op in this fundraising event. For more information about the event see the co-op’s website. Aldie Mansion is at 85 Old Dublin Pike in Doylestown. Doors open at 6:30 pm and the movie will be shown at 7 pm.
An evening with Joanne Caras, author of the Holocaust Survivor Cookbook, will take place at the Elkins Gallery of the Mercer Museum on Thursday, December 8th at 7:30 pm. Caras, who has appeared on CBS, Fox TV and national radio, will share the story of how the cookbook was created, and will relate several of the most moving and miraculous stories that appear in the book. The cookbook is a collection of recipes and stories of over 120 Holocaust survivors. Autographed cookbooks will be available for purchase at the event and a sampling of recipes from the cookbook will be served. Admission is $10. For more information call 215.340.1303 or see the website.
For more details on any of these events, please go to our full calendar, Food Events in Bucks County. Have a warm, bright weekend. Follow Bucks County Taste also on Facebook and Twitter.
Think Thanksgiving. Think Christmas or Hanukkah. What foods and memories come to mind? What do you really love and miss if it’s not on the table? Be honest, now.
For me, Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays. I love the whole thing: turkey, stuffing, gravy, sweet potatoes, and, of course, green bean casserole. You know what I’m talking about. Made from frozen French cut green beans, mixed with sour cream and mushrooms and topped with French’s fried onions. Say “ugh” if you must, but I bet you’ve got some similar dish you cherish too.
I asked a host of Bucks County chefs and restaurateurs about their food memories – what they loved about celebrating the holidays and what has stayed with them. What I heard wasn’t exotic, or haute cuisine. What I heard was family and tradition, and a lot of love.
photo credit Pineville Tavern
For Drew Abruzzese, executive chef at the Pineville Tavern, holidays began with a trip to Baltimore, where his father’s family is from. Sitting down for dinner at two tables pushed together that didn’t match, and feeling the flour on the floor under his shoes, leftover from two days of making ravioli on the dining room table.
Dinner included all of the usual American holiday staples, and then some. Ravioli, sausage with peppers, meatballs. “I hate to bring up ravioli again but most of my memories are filled with Marinara sauce,” he says.
They are also filled with memories of hanging out at his Aunt Josie’s house, where both the door and the kitchen were always open. A coffee pot was always on, cookies and cannoli at hand, or leftover veal cutlet, ready to go into a sandwich.
“If I was sitting on death row, and had to choose my last meal?” says Abruzzese, “Breaded chicken cutlets, stacked to the ceiling, in my Aunt Josie’s kitchen.”
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“Eggnog. It’s not Christmas until I get my eggnog.” This from chef Matthew McPhelin, owner of Maize Restaurant in Perkasie, where local, fresh ingredients take center stage and the menu changes with the seasons.
McPhelin, one of five children, was raised by his mother after his father passed away during his childhood. And his father’s favorite holiday food? Eggnog.
For McPhelin, a huge part of the holiday time is about family. “My mom raised five of us all by herself. During the year, we didn’t have a lot of time. It was kind of crazy. But the one time we made sure we were all together was Thanksgiving and Christmas.”
Now he makes pumpkin lasagna and pumpkin lobster soup at Thanksgiving, both at home and at the restaurant. But his favorite? “My mom made the best sweet potatoes — that’s what I think of.”
For chef Rich Baringer of Dinner’s Done, a personal chef service, it’s about tradition too. “Turkey, stuffing, ham, mashed potatoes, the usual,” he says, adding, “But one I don’t care for. Mashed rutabagas. Mom makes them because her grandmother made them; I’m not even sure she likes them!”
Then there’s “Dad’s cole slaw” called such because, well, Dad always shreds the cabbage. “It’s like somewhere along the line someone made something and it meant enough that someone else wanted to continue it.”
In addition to “mom’s applesauce,” pineapple stuffing is a given. “If someone didn’t make it, people would ask, where is it?” Then there were the Christmas mornings, stealing downstairs with his sister to take down their stockings where they would always find Slim Jims.
Eating Slim Jims early in the morning? Well, it wouldn’t be Christmas without it, says Baringer.
The holidays were a big family get-together for David Zuckerman, too, general manager of Earl’s Bucks County in Lahaska. He describes a kitchen where all the women, all generations were cooking together, all with their place and their job.
“My grandmother made stuffed cabbage – raisins, sweet tomato sauce, fresh lemon juice. My father made brisket – no one messed with dad’s brisket.”
Thanksgiving was “standard” but with the traditional Jewish dish of tzimmes — carrots, prunes, and honey. Green beans with fried onions, of course, and fresh apple pies made with local apples.
Hanukkah brings memories of chocolate coins, or gelt, in little mesh bags, cookies in the shapes of menorahs and Jewish stars, potato latkes and freshly made applesauce. “It was really about the family being together.”
Chef Justin Kaplan grew up with two traditions — his mother’s side was Greek, his father’s side was Jewish. In his aunt’s house — that’s the Greek Orthodox side — Christmas meant tyropita — buttered phyllo triangles filled with salted feta, leg of lamb and moussaka.
On the Jewish side, Kaplan’s memories include fresh applesauce made from Terhune Orchards’ apples, the smell of potato latkes, and fresh horseradish, lingering through the house. And, pies, lots of pies. Pecan pie and apple pie, made from Stayman and Empire apples.
But his favorite? “My mom makes these mashed potatoes, with a crisp and crunchy top layer, dusted with paprika and butter,” he says, “We’d always scrape off the top layer until there’d only be the last two inches left.”
Kate Barker and Louis Giliberti, owners and chefs at 1821 Steaks and Cocktails in Upper Black Eddy, also mix traditions. Barker hails from the Pacific Northwest and Giliberti is North Jersey Italian.
She makes the turkey which comes from Bolton’s in Silverdale. “We always drive together to pick the turkey up at least two days ahead of the holiday in order to properly brine it,” says Barker, “I also make the gravy. My mother didn’t have a wide vocabulary of dishes that she could cook — she never used a fresh herb in her life — but she had an amazing gift with gravy and she taught me well.”
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Louis’ mother and father are both from Italy so they always celebrate the Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve. That first involves a “white knuckle” trip to Newark with Louis’ father to the Portuguese section to buy the freshest shrimp, cockles, clams, baccala, capetune (eel), and lobster.
Louis’ mother starts baking like crazy just before Christmas so there are all kinds of traditional Italian sweets to enjoy: bowties, struffoli, and zeppole. “And then there is the box of sweets and goodies that arrives from Italy with candy-coated almonds,” says Barker, “and hard cookies to have with coffee that will take a filling out if you’re not careful.”
“My family are connoisseurs of JELL-O,”
“My family are connoisseurs of JELL-O,” explains Eben Copple, chef at the Yardley Inn, when I ask him about holiday food memories. Copple is Kansas born and bred, and is proud of his Midwestern roots, if not JELL-O per se.
“All of our celebratory meals were the same: Turkey and ham, candied yams with melted marshmallows, several different types of salads – bean salad, green salad and JELL-O salad,” he explains.
All kidding aside, growing up in the middle of farm country made a great impact on Copple and his relationship with food. “I remember being at my grandmother’s house, helping her put up apple butter, walking down the steps to her basement, and seeing the shelves full of canned goods she had put up for the winter.”
Now he holds that attitude towards food as a kind of platonic ideal, considering how food should be treated and respecting where it comes from. “Food should be good and honest,” he says, wondering if we are losing our food traditions in the American heartland, far away from the ethnic influences of the coasts.
Then there are the peanut butter balls, made by his aunt. “It’s creamy peanut butter mixed with Rice Krispies – sort of like a peanut butter fudge – rolled into small balls and dipped in chocolate. I’d eat handfuls of it.”
Photo credit Theo Petron
For chef Theo Petron, co-owner with chef Melissa Wieczorek of Zest Culinary Services personal chef services, the holidays were influenced by his German heritage. “Growing up in Minnesota, we were and are fairly traditional,” he explains. “One dish that was usually at our table during the holidays was a beef roulade of sorts. Thinly sliced beef seared and then rolled up and secured with toothpicks. It was then braised in a sauerbraten-like sauce until tender. My grandmother called them ‘Beef Birds.’”
And not to be outdone by Eben Copple, but quite impressive, was the JELL-O dessert a la Petron. “My other grandmother made this wacky dessert. Green JELL-O in a casserole dish with 6 – 8 canned pear halves sunk in, and inside each pear was a maraschino cherry! Imagine the festive colors. It was refrigerated until set, scooped out and served atop a piece of iceberg and a dollop of cottage cheese – to keep the JELL-O from sliding off the lettuce.”
Maybe, just maybe, some traditions can fade away.
This article was originally published in Bucks Life magazine, November 2011.
Some sad news first. The Wycombe Pub and Grill will be closing its doors this Wednesday (tomorrow) due to family health issues. We’ve gotten to love this unassuming bar – truly a pub in the English sense – where locals gather to share a beer, watch a game and kid around with the bartenders. Wycombe is a pretty small place and we have literally met neighbors for the first time sitting in the Wycombe. We wish Kevin Dougherty and his family well. Hopefully someone will buy the newly renovated restaurant that has only been open for a year and a half. We just hope they get the recipe for the extra crispy wings.
Also sad is that Meil’s in Stockton is for sale, due to health issues of its owner. Yikes. Meil’s is a landmark, for goodness sake. Let’s pray too that a buyer comes along and recognizes the value of keeping things the same at this haven for comfort food. Best wishes to its owner as well.
On a brighter note, we recently bought a special holiday sausage from Purely Farm at the Stockton Market last weekend. I don’t normally write about specific food products, but wow, this deserves it. Mixed in with the pork are caramelized onions and raisins, a special recipe created by Joanna Michini, one of the farm’s owners. The combination is delicious. Purely Farm raises its own pigs, grazing them on pasture using all natural methods. If you haven’t tried their pork, chicken or lamb, do yourself a favor and stop by their booth at the market on Saturdays and Sundays.
Finally, Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton have issued a new installment in the Canal House Cooking series just in time for holiday gift giving. And oh what a gift. This year the authors are focusing on Italian food. They spent a month in Tuscany researching this book (do try not to be insanely jealous). Already steeped in knowledge of Italian food from all over Italy they were hungry for more, to go to the sources and eat fresh each day. The result is a book full of paninis, pasta, fish, birds (and rabbits), meat, vegetables and, of course, sweets. I love the section entitled, “Why Buy It When You Can Make It?” which includes recipes for salsa verde, fresh ricotta and ragù bolognese. Accompanying the recipes as always are Hirsheimer’s equally delicious photography. You can purchase the Canal House Cooking (vol. 7) – La Dolce Vita online at their website or from Amazon.com.
Tootling around Bucks County on a beautiful fall afternoon we stopped at the Lumberville General Store, also known as the Black Bass Hotel General Store. If you’ve never been, do stop by while driving the scenic River Road. The store has been a mainstay of the little community of Lumberville, just 8 miles north of New Hope, for years. It is one of the longest running general stores in the county, says chef Wayne Surline, a Johnson & Wales graduate formerly of the Nevermore, Tastebuds and other local restaurants. Wandering through the store it’s hard to believe they do so much in such a small space, including a first-rate bakery with fresh pastries, sandwiches, deli and grocery staples. Now on Friday nights, it’s also a BYOB from 5 pm to 8 pm. One past Friday night the menu started with vegetarian black bean soup or a spring mix with crisp “veggies, followed by two entrees – old fashioned onion brisket or seared salmon with white truffle. Dessert included chocolate raspberry cake or New York style cheesecake. All served in the quaint store and all for $16.95. Surline says breakfast is served everyday and is a big favorite on weekends. The general store also makes all the desserts and fresh bread for the Black Bass Hotel and Restaurant across the road. For more information on this week’s Friday dinner, call the store at 215.297.9262. The store is at 3741 River Road/Route 32.
Just down the road in Center Bridge, the well-known ice cream stand, Dilly’s Corner, is staying open this winter and offering dinner on weekends. Dilly’s Done Different is the name of the BYOB that will take place on Fridays and Saturdays from 5 pm to 9 pm, and Sundays 12 pm to 7 pm. Reservations are strongly recommended, cash and local checks only. Call 215.862.5333. Dilly’s is at the intersection of River Road/Route 32 and Route 263, right by the bridge which goes over to Stockton, NJ.
And finally, even further south, in Yardley, Charcoal has opened The Snack Shoppe. The favorite spot does great breakfasts and lunches, and gourmet dinners featuring “progressive American fare.” Now you can do “gourmet brown bagging” at the restaurant too. Read more in Jen Wielgus’ piece on phillyburbs.com. Charcoal is at 11 South Delaware Avenue in Yardley and is open Tuesdays through Sundays from 8 am – 3 pm for breakfast and lunch, and Tuesdays through Thursdays from 5 pm to 9 pm, and Fridays and Saturdays from 5 pm to 10 pm. You can reach them at 215.493.6394.